Córdoba - A Mesh of Color and Cultures Spain Travel Blog

Córdoba is traditional Spain at its finest. It is famous for having been a center of learning for Christians, Jews and Muslims alike, something evident today in all the beautiful monuments and architecture sprawling around town. Most of these incredible monuments are located in the Historic Center, also known as the Old Town of Córdoba, which was our focal point when choosing our hotel. We stayed at the NH Collection Amistad Córdoba, a perfect location to wonder around on foot and take in all of Córdoba’s amazing history.

The statue of Córdoba A Averroes along the old city walls. Averroes, was a Muslim Andalusian polymath and jurist who wrote about many subjects, including philosophy, theology, medicine, astronomy, physics, psychology, mathematics, Islamic jurisprude… — The statue of Córdoba A Averroes along the old city walls. Averroes, was a Muslim Andalusian polymath and jurist who wrote about many subjects, including philosophy, theology, medicine, astronomy, physics, psychology, mathematics, Islamic jurisprudence and law, and linguistics

This was us driving our car through the tiny streets of the historic city center looking for our hotel. We do not recommend driving in the old town of Córdoba.

Córdoba’s historic and beautiful tiny streets, best explored on foot

We arrived in Córdoba on a Sunday and stayed till Tuesday, which we quickly realized was one of the reasons the city felt so calm and quaint. A lot of the events, attractions and even the nightlife, come to life from Wednesday to Saturday. Luckily, we did our research and made sure to buy our tickets in advance to see the biggest attraction in Córdoba, the La Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba / Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba, which quickly gets sold out, even on days that are not busy.

Day 1: Sun: 10/20

We began our first day plaza hopping, which we recommend because it gives you a feel for the city and what it offers.

We started at Plaza Maimonides because it was located in front of our hotel, conveniently located inside the Historical Center of Córdoba. This is where Córdoba’s “golden years” began in the 8th century after the Moors had conquered the city and established about 300 mosques, palaces and public buildings. The Historical Center of Córdoba has been classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for “universal value.” It comprises the area surrounding the Mosque-Cathedral, extending across the river to include the Roman Bridge and Torre de Calahorra/Calahorra Tower. The historical center of the city beautifully illustrates the different cultures that have lived there. This area also has lots of boutique shops, which is a shoppers paradise for jewelry and souvenirs.

Plaza Maimonides located in front of our hotel in the middle of the Historic Center of Córdoba

Statues we found right next to our hotel and Plaza Maimonides, it is believed that if you rub the philosopher’s feet, you are guaranteed a trip back to Córdoba

We then walked to the San Basilio neighborhood, also known as Alcázar Viejo, to experience Los Patios de Alcazar Viejo / The Patios of Old Alcazar. The patios are particularly beautiful in May when the flowers are in bloom. During this time there are annual competitions for the best looking patio as well, which we hope to attend next time we’re in Córdoba. In this neighborhood, there are specific houses open to the public where you can see their inner courtyards created during the Islamic period. During the time of the festivals, these courtyards are beautifully dressed with hanging flowerpots and flowerbeds, some of them also have central fountains and sometimes portico arches. We visited Córdoba in October, and walked through the neighborhood late in the evening. We didn’t get to see the patios, but still enjoyed our evening stroll through this old neighborhood.

The old neighborhood of San Basilio in Córdoba, Spain

From there we worked our way up to Caballerizas Reales where you can see equestrian shows. We heard it was a must see, but unfortunately, they only have shows from Wednesdays thru Saturdays. The stables house the best stallions and mares of the royal stud breed Andalusian horse.

The entrance to the Caballerizas Reales in Córdoba, Spain

The garden of the Caballerizas Reales in Córdoba, Spain

By this time were hungry and went to Plaza de la Corredera to eat. This 17th century Public Square is one of the central squares in the city. The plaza is rectangular and surrounded by arched porticos and can be compared to the Plaza Major in Madrid or the Plaza Major in Salamanca, Spain. The entrance to the square is through the Arco Alto and the Arco Bajo, two beautiful arched entranceways. One of the buildings surrounding the square is called “Las Casas de Doña Ana Jacinta” and the other is called “The Mercado de Sanchez Peña”, which served as a jail until the 19th century and was then purchased by businessman Jose Sanchez Peña who used it for commerce.

Eating Rabo de Torro / Oxtail, one of Córdoba’s most popular dishes, typically served with fries, in Plaza de la Corredera

With our stomachs full, we walked to the Roman Temple of Córdoba. In the 1950s the remains of a Roman temple were discovered during the expansion of city Hall. The temple stands where today’s Claudio Mercelo and Capitulares streets meet. This temple is one of several that once stood in the city, but is believed to have been the most important of them all and the only one to have survived. The temple would have been used for worship by the Cult of the Emperor and formed part of the Provincial Forum together with the Circus Maximus. The temple has six free standing columns on its front facade and would have had ten columns on each side, but only 3 on each side are currently standing. The temple is fairly large, measuring 32 meters (104 ft) by 16 meters (52 ft).

After quickly visiting the Roman temple, we walked to Plaza Tendillas. You can casually hang out there, it’s very active and lively. It’s a great place to grab a cup of coffee, people watch or take a stroll through its lovely streets and window shop.

Then, we walk towards el Paseo de La Victoria, a big main street, where you’ll bump into a huge park. There are small kiosks with shops as well as the big Mercado Victoria. It’s a foodie’s paradise. It’s a market with a lot of different restaurants selling breakfast, lunch and dinner and stays open late for a fun night out.

At Mercado Victoria in Córdoba, Spain you will be able to find tons of jamón serrano

Day 2: Mon: 10/21

The next day we woke up early and began our tour of La Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba / Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba. In the Mosque-Cathedral, who’s ecclesiastical name is Cathedral of St. Mary of the Assumption of Córdoba, you can trace many of the significant changes that have occurred in Córdoba’s religious history.

The magnificent Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba / Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba

An altar along one of the walls of La Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba / Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba dedicated to St. Mary of the Assumption

The majority of the art and architecture we see today comes from the 8th century Islamic architects of the former mosque. Later a Visigothic cathedral stood here and then in 784, Abd al-Rahman I ordered construction of the Great Mosque, which was considerably expanded by later Muslim rulers. Córdoba returned to Christian rule in 1236 during the Reconquista, and the building was converted to a Catholic church. The church was built inside the mosque by the Christian conquerors in the 13th century.

The entrence to La Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba / Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba

The walls of the La Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba / Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba.

Once inside, you find a magical fountain where it is believed that if a single person drinks from it, they will get married.

The magical fountain inside La Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba / Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba

When you walk into the Mosque-Cathedral, you will be in awe of its magnificent colors, structures and statues that represent both religion and culture. It’s absolutely fascinating!

Inside La Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba / Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba

Also, attached to the Mosque-Cathedral is the Torre Campanario where you will be able to get one of the best views of Córdoba, just climb up for only 2 euros. It’s completely worth it.

The magnificent Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba / Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba, featuring the tower where you can climb and get amazing views of the city

Climbing up the tower of the Mosque-Cathedral in Córdoba, Spain

Inside the tower of the Mosque-Cathedral in Córdoba, Spain

Top view of La Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba / Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba, here you can appreciate the enormity of the gardens

Beautiful view of Córdoba from the tower at La Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba / Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba

Bell tower at La Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba / Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba

The magical colors of the city of Córdoba

Just a few minutes away from the Mosque-Cathedral, you’ll find Puerta del Puenta. The Bridge Gate stands on the north bank of the Guadalquivir River. It is a renaissance structure constructed on the site of the former Roman and Moorish gates.

The gate connects to the Puente Romano. It originated in the 1st century AD but has been rebuilt several times since then. The Roman Bridge would have been part of the Augusta route, which connected Rome, Italy to Cadiz, Spain. Its present form was constructed in the Middle Ages, with the Muslim rulers building on the remains of the former Roman Bridge. The Puerta del Puente and Calahorra Tower were constructed at each end of the bridge in the Middle Ages. The latest changes were made in 1876. The bridge has 16 arches (the original had 17 arches), four are pointed and the rest are semi-circular. Half-way along the bridge is a 16th century shrine and statue of Saint Raphael created by Bernabe Gomez del Rio. The total length of the bridge is 247 meters (about half a mile) and it is approximately 9 meters (30 feet) wide.

Puerta del Puenta and Puente Romano in Córdoba, Spain

We walked back to the historic part of town and entered La Calleja de las Flores. This quaint alley way is located in the Jewish Quarter of Córdoba, in front of the northern façade of the mosque and leads into a small plaza. From the plaza there are great views of the Cathedral tower. The street has become popular with tourists for its beautiful white washed houses on either side with colorful flower baskets hanging from the windows and walls. The houses have charming balconies with wrought-iron balustrades dripping with flowerpots. It is the picture-perfect vision of a typical Andalusian street. The street twists and winds up a gentle slope to the small square at the top. The homes along the “Little Street of Flowers” have beautiful little courtyards, which the inhabitants take great pride in maintaining. As mentioned earlier, one of the best times to visit the alley is during the festival de los Patios held in May.

La Calleja de las Flores in the jewish quarter in Córdoba, Spain

La Calleja de las Flores in the jewish quarter in Córdoba, Spain, this is El Patio Andaluz Taberna Restaurant were we had amazing paella and local wine

After a long day of walking, we enjoyed a free flamenco show at one of the many restaurants that offer it in the historic part of Córdoba. We went to the Restaurant Patio de la Judería Centro Cultural y Gastronómic and enjoyed an authentic dinner and flamenco show. It’s highly recommended.

Restaurant Patio de la Judería Centro Cultural y Gastronómic where we enjoyed an authentic dinner and dancing show in Córdoba, Spain

This is one of Córdoba’s most authentic dishes, Salmorejo Cordobés con Jamón, it’s served cold

This was a speciality of the house at Restaurant Patio de la Judería Centro Cultural y Gastronómic, it was Trampantojo Ferrero Rocher - Bombones de Foie, it’s chocolate covered foie (liver)

If you have more time in Cordoba, I recommend visiting the following:

Alcazar De Los Reyes Cristianos: The ancient fortress of Alcazar of the Christian Monarchs or Alcazar of Cordoba served as the court of royals for 160 years following its constructed by Alfonso XI in 1328. The complex stands on the site on an earlier 8th century caliphate residence and still retains elements of the Moorish remains. During the 15th century the complex was home to Ferdinand and Isabella, rulers of Castile for 8 years while planning their attack on Granada to the last of the Moors. This is where Christopher Columbus was presented to Queen Isabella and told of his plans to discover the New World. This complex also once held Boabdil (Moorish ruler of Granada) prisoner in 1483 and a few years later became the headquarters of the Spanish Inquisition (1492-1821) and was used as a prison. In 1810 the palace–fortress became the garrison for Napoleon’s forces.

Hammam Al Andalus Baths – Take a step back in time and submerge yourself in total relaxation in Turkish style baths.

Palacio Museo de Viana and Patios: Cordoba’s palace museum, the Palace of the Marquises of Viana is in the Santa Marina district and is a declared monument of cultural interest. It is also nicknamed the Patio Museum because of the twelve patios, which surround the palace. A visit to the palace includes an hour-long tour of the interior and access to the patios. The building was constructed in the typical Andalusian style and holds a wealth of antique furniture, artwork, a collection of historic firearms and a library with over 7,000 books.

We also heard really good things about these restaurants if you have more time during your visit:
-El Churrasco – Steakhouse near the Mesquita
-El Mar de Bueno – Seafood

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