Granada - "The Red One" Spain Travel Blog

Aside from being a charming city, there is one main reason people visit Granada and that is to be enchanted by the Alhambra. To make our trip really memorable, we stayed at the Alhambra Palace Hotel (this is not the Alhambra itself). It’s an old palace that still shines with historic delight. The rooms have a beautiful take on aristrocatic romance, all with a spin of modern luxury. The hotel offers a beautiful terrace outside to enjoy the sunset and a view of the city as well.

Beautiful views from our hotel in Granada, Spain

Day 1: Fri: 10/18

We really wanted our first day in Granada to be at the Alhambra, but when booking this trip, we quickly learned that tickets sell out fast and needed to purchase them a few months in advance. So, instead, we began our first day with a fun walking tour of the city. We started at Plaza Nueva/New Plaza, a central location in the city to walk anywhere. Contrary to what the name suggests, Plaza Nueva is one of the oldest squares in Granada. The plaza runs along the Darro River with fantastic views on both sides.

We did a quick stop in Puerta De Elvira, the main entrance to the city. The gate was the protector of the city. It became the arch of triumph for the kings on their official visits. In the seventeenth century, the side barbicans were demolished, clearing the gap for the popular Plaza del Triunfo located in front of the gate.

From the gate, we took the walk up the hill to the Albayzi/Albaicín, declared a World Heritage Site in 1984, Albaicín translates to ‘quarter of the falconers’ and is called the Moorish Quarter. The first Siri court was constructed right here in the 11th century. This neighborhood is known for its famous vistas, given that it is on a hill facing the Alhambra.

Views of Granada walking up through the Albaicín neighborhood

To get the best view of the Alhambra, climb up to the Mirador de San Nicolas. It is close to the Church of San Nicolas. The church was built on the site of the Grand Mosque of Granada. Many, many years ago; there were 30 mosques and a sizeable Muslim population during the times of Nazarid rule. After the downslide of Nazarid rule most of the mosques were destroyed and churches were built over them. Now a days, there is still a mosque next to the Church of San Nicolas with a beautiful garden you can enter and walk through. Here, you can admire the Alhambra without the crowd you find in the Mirador de San Nicolas.

The view of the Alhambra from the garden of the mosque

The Mirador de San Nicolas is one of the most popular areas of the Albaicín because of its fabulous view of Granada. This is a major tourist attraction, so prepare yourself for the crowds. The square is considered to be the place where you can see the most beautiful sunset in the world.

San Nicolas Square / Mirador de San Nicolas

There are plenty of restaurants with a view of the Alhambra and the city of Granada right in-front the square as well. We recommend going to one of them and enjoying the sunset and views with a glass of wine in hand. We went to the restaurant Juanranas and absolutely loved it!

Restaurant Juanranas in front of Mirador de San Nicolas providing amazing views of the Alhambra and Granada

If you have the energy to continue climbing up, visit the Ermita de San Miguel Alto. It’s located higher up the hill than the Mirador de San Nicolas and offers probably the best view around. We were a bit tired, so we began our walk down through the Albaicín neighborhood.

Walking through the Albaicín neighborhood during sunset

Walking through the Albaicín during sunset

Beautiful sunsets in the Albaicín neighborhood

Enjoying the views in the Albaicín neighborhood

When we walked down from the Albaicín, we went to Carrera Del Darro. It’s one of the oldest streets in the city and considered one of the most beautiful streets in the world. Unfortunately, by the time we got to the street it was dark and couldn’t appreciate all of its beauty, although we did enjoy walking along the river and seeing all the historical buildings, it is a stroll that takes you back in time.

Beautiful, historical buildings along Carrera Del Darro / Darro Street

Day 2: Sat: 10/19

Since our tickets to enter the Alhambra were are 3pm, that morning we went to Calle Caldereria Nueva y Vieja, to find the Alcaiceria, known as the little Marrakech. It’s the Grand Bazaar of Granada and the original Moorish silk market. The streets are filled with Arab tearooms, heirs to the ancient Islamic tradition of Granada, as well as shops of Moorish crafts. It’s an ideal place for shopping.

The main entrance to the Alcaiceria, known as the little Marrakech for amazing shopping

One of the entrances to the Alcaiceria, known as the little Marrakech for amazing shopping

After doing some fun shopping at the Alcaiceria, we finally went to see The Alhambra. Alhambra derives from the Arabic meaning "the red one" because of its reddish walls. It is an imposing fortress with palaces in it on top of a hill and spreads across 140,000 square meters.

One of the first few buildings you see when entering the Alhambra

Entering the Alhambra, you can clearly see the red in the walls, which is why it’s called “The Red One”

The Alhambra was where the Muslim rulers resided and hence there is an immense sense of history and grandeur about the place. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site along with the Generalife. There are quite a few things to explore when you are at the Alhambra and Generalife. Below are more details about each section.

Palace of Charles V: Among all the attractions in Granada one that stands out in terms of its grandeur is the palace of Charles V. Built in the Renaissance style, it is located inside the Alhambra, a Nasrid fortification. This was built by Charles V, the emperor, as a symbolic gesture. Walk through the 2 floors of the palace to explore its beautiful architecture and structure; there are mezzanine floors as well. The upper floor is of the Ionic order with pilasters and sedimented windows placed in an alternating sequence. The lower floor is of the Tuscan order. Check out the circular patio that is part of the palace complex and considered the most important Renaissance style construction in all of Spain. Explore the museum that is on the top floor of the palace; this is a Fine Arts Museum.

Palacios Nazaries: Palacios Nazaries or the Nazarid palaces form a complex of palaces in Granada that was the residence of the monarchs. The first palace in the complex was built in the 13th century by Alhamar, the founder of the Nazarid dynasty. Of all the palaces that were built to form the complex, currently only the ones from the 14th century remain. 3 palaces form the Palacios Nazaries complex today – the Mexuar, the Yusuf I Palace, also known as the Palacio de Comares, and Palace of Muhammad V or the Palacios de los Leones/Palace of the Lions. The first building in the complex, through which you enter, is the Mexuar. This was built in the 14th century and was the council chamber. It also served as an antechamber where the people met the emir. Once you move out of the Mexuar you reach the Patio del Cuarto Dorado. This is a courtyard where the emir met officials and people. The Palacio de Comares was the private residence of the emir, and was built for Yusuf I. At the southern end is the Palacio de los Leones, which you reach through the Patio de los Arrayanes; make sure not to miss the marble fountain.

Entering Palacios de los Leones/Palace of the Lions in the Alhambra Palace

Palacios de los Leones / Palace of the Lions in the Alhambra in Granada, Spain

The marble fountain in the Palacios de los Leones / Palace of the Lions in the Alhambra in Granada, Spain

Generalife: The name Generalife means garden of the architect. This palace was the summer palace and country estate of the Nasrid Emirs. The palace and gardens were built during the 13th century. This palace was the summer palace and country estate of the Nasrid Emirs. Today the Generalife is formed by two groups of buildings connected by the Patio of the Irrigation Ditch (Patio de la Acequia) but since the palace has been altered and rebuilt several times during its history it is difficult to know what it originally looked like. The gardens were designed for tranquility, with the gentle sound of running water softly heard throughout. There are beautiful fountains, long pools and several streams flowing throughout the gardens. The gardens make for a relaxing end to the Alhambra visit. Take your time to relax in the shade and enjoy the tranquility.

The views of the Alhambra and Granada from the Generalife in Granada, Spain

The gardens of the Generalife in Granada, Spain

The Alcazaba has interesting sights as well, including the Arms Square, Arms Tower, Watch Tower, and the gardens on the ramparts.

My recommendation is to purchase the guided tour with the entrance to all the palaces. You will be walking around for a few hours but the Alhambra has hidden gems everywhere that you don’t want to miss.

Hidden gems inside the Alhambra, these are some of the walls and ceiling

Resting my feet inside the Alhambra in Granada, Spain

After enjoying the beauty of the Alhambra, we walked to Calle Navas to browse through the countless shops as well as grab something to eat at one of the many restaurants for some delicious local fare.

Granada was actually one of the cities throughout our trip in Spain were we got a chance to party. We had been so tired from so much travel we didn’t enjoy the nightlife in all the locations we visited. In Granada, we had the best drinks and tapas at Rosario Varela, which is near Calle Navas. We partied at Paripe nightclub in Calle Morras, which is surrounded by other nightclubs such as Discoteca Backstage.

We didn’t get a chance to visit these, but if you have more time in Granada, these are other locations that were highly recommended to us.

Sacromonte: One of the most scenic neighborhoods in Granada and also known as the gypsy quarter. This is an area with multiple geographical elements, including meadows, rivers, and mountain views. The area is multi-ethnic as well: there are Spaniards, of course, and then there are gypsies, Jews, and Arabs too. From the 18th century there have been gypsies there, settled on the slopes of Cerro de San Miguel. Along with the traditional housing forms, there are caves as well where people stay. There are different kinds of caves, found near the roads and therefore easy to go to. Walk along the main street to see these caves. Walk into one to experience the feeling as they come complete with bedrooms, dining area, and kitchen, and have an official gate. When you visit them you can meet the gypsies that live there. You can meet Flemish artists here as well. Walk into any of the numerous restaurants on the main street to taste some local cuisine. Visit the Centro de Interpretación del Sacromonte - an open air folk museum where you can experience the local music – classical guitar shows, art and craft, folk traditions, flamenco shows, food, and much more.

Granada Cathedral: Built in the heart of the city, Granada Cathedral is one of the best examples of Spanish style Renaissance architecture. The cathedral was built in 1523 by Queen Isabella at the site where the Main Mosque was. The Granada Cathedral, therefore, is essentially a Renaissance cathedral built on Gothic foundations. As you walk in, you will be awestruck by the dome of the main chapel; it has sculptures, paintings by Alonso Cano, and also stained glass. The cathedral also has 3 beautiful doors: Ecce Homo, San Jerónimo, and El Perdón.

Royal Chapel of Granada: The Capilla Real, or the Royal Chapel, is built side by side to the Granada Cathedral and both have an immense slice of history attached to them. They were both constructed at a site that original housed the Main Mosque.

Al Andalus Arab Baths – Bathe like the Arab’s did and enjoy true relaxation.

The restaurants we recommend in Granada are below:

Los Maueles for typical Spanish food
Los Diamantes for seafood
Realejo located in the Jewish quarter

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